If you love history, nature and big game fishing, then Russell, Bay of Islands, is the place to base yourself.
Russell was the first capital of New Zealand and has not only many notable historical places of interest, but nature at its finest. It is also a great place to base yourself for exploring the Bay of Islands on one of the many cruises available, which allow you to explore the islands and the diverse marine life in the area.
Read on to learn about this piece of paradise in New Zealand, once known as the “hell-hole of the Pacific”.
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Contents
- 1 Why You Should Visit Russell, Bay of Islands
- 2 Historic Russell, Bay of Islands
- 3 Pompallier Mission and Printery
- 4 Christ Church
- 5 Flagstaff Hill
- 6 Cruising in the Bay of Islands
- 7 Just Enjoy the Ambience in Russell, Bay of Islands
- 8 Where I Stayed
- 9 Conclusion
- 10 Links
- 11 Travel Resources
- 12 Did You Like This Post? Then Pin It!
Why You Should Visit Russell, Bay of Islands
- Historical Significance: Russell is one of New Zealand’s oldest and most significant towns, and it’s here that you can learn about its rich history, which dates back to the early European settlement. You can visit historical sites like Pompallier House and Christ Church, and walk up Flagstaff Hill to learn about the country’s past.
- Beautiful Beaches: Russell has stunning beaches where you can enjoy their crystal-clear waters and pristine white sands. At popular spots like Long Beach and Oneroa Bay, you can relax, swim, and enjoy water activities like kayaking or snorkelling.
- Scenic Landscapes: The town is located in the Bay of Islands, renowned for its picturesque beauty. You can take boat tours or go hiking to explore the rugged coastlines, abundant wildlife, and lush greenery. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the iconic Hole in the Rock.
- Whale and Dolphin Watching: The Bay of Islands is home to a large population of marine mammals, including dolphins, whales, and seals. You can join a boat tour and have the chance to see these incredible creatures up close in their natural habitat.
- Adventure Activities: For thrill-seekers, Russell offers a range of adventurous activities, including fishing charters, sailing trips, parasailing, and jet skiing. You can also go on scenic hikes or explore the area on a mountain bike.
- Quaint Atmosphere: Despite its historical significance, Russell retains a charming and relaxed atmosphere. The town boasts a lovely waterfront area featuring boutique shops, art galleries, and quaint cafes, where you can savour local cuisine and soak up the ambience.
Historic Russell, Bay of Islands
Russel may be a small town, but its history is vast. It was in this area that white settlement started in New Zealand.

Its original Maori name is Kororareka, and white whalers would trade with the Maori and base themselves here, receiving the reputation as the “hell hole of the Pacific.” Not this peaceful tourist oasis it is today.
By 1830, Kororareka was one of the largest whaling ports in the Southern Hemisphere and with hundreds of men onshore, “ladies” and alcohol ruled the land.
Pompallier Mission and Printery

Pompallier Mission and Printery was a Catholic Mission and Printery and is now a tourist attraction. You can take a tour today to learn about 19th-century printing and bookbinding, as well as walk around the beautiful Victorian and Edwardian gardens.
Pompallier House is named after Bishop Pompallier, who bought the land in 1839 and had the house constructed during 1841 and 1842 using the rammed earth method. By 1842, it was printing religious texts in Maori and continued to do so until 1849.
After passing through private hands over the years, the Government purchased it in 1941, and it was restored in the 1990s with the original printing press.
Hours
Daily
- 10:00 am – 4.30 pm (Summer – November 1st – April 30th)
- 10:00 am – 3.30 pm (Winter – May 1st – October 31st)
Summer Guided Tour Times (November 1st – April 30th)
- 10.30 am, 11.30 am, 1.30 pm, 2.30 pm, 3.30 pm (subject to availability)
Winter Guided Tour Times (May 1st – October 31st)
- 10.30 am, 11.30 am, 1.30 pm, 2.30 pm (subject to availability)
French Coffee House Café
- 10.00 am – 3.00 pm (Friday – Wednesday). The café is closed on Thursdays over winter (1st May – 31st October).
Public Holidays
- Christmas Day, Anzac Day (until 1.00 pm)
Prices
To find the prices for guided tours, as well as garden and museum tours, please visit their website.
Where It Is
Pompallier Mission and Printery is located at 5 The Strand. Turn right off the pier, and it’s less than 300m away.
Christ Church

Christ Church is the oldest church still in use today, making it the most historically significant European settlement building in not only Russell but also New Zealand.
The first service was held in 1836 in the nearly completed building and was open to both Māori and Pākehā (Europeans), with services conducted in both Māori and English. It was also used occasionally as a courthouse.
What brings most people to see the church is the damage done to the outside by musket shots and cannonballs during the Battle of Kororareka. It was on 11 March 1845 that 600 Maori fought the Royal Marines and sailors from the HMS Hazard, who were aiding a detachment of the 96th Regiment British soldiers, as they were dissatisfied with how the British ruled the country.
A walk through the graveyard is a must with many significant people buried here including Tamati Waka Nene, a Ngapuhi chief primarily responsible for the Maori’s acceptance of the Treaty of Waitangi and who fought for the settlers against Hone Heke, Hannah King Letheridge, the second European girl to be born in NZ, Dr Samuel Ford, New Zealand’s first resident surgeon, the six men from HMS Hazard who fell in the battle, and whalers whose headstones often tell of untimely deaths.
Walking Audio Tours
A digital cemetery walk from Hikoi Tahi Walking Tours is available, guiding you through the graves and sharing the stories of some of the interesting people buried here. Please download the walk below and enjoy visiting the church.


Hours
- Monday – Saturday 9 am – 5 pm
- Sunday 10.30 am – 5 pm
- Services every Sunday at 10.30 am.
Prices
Free
Where It Is
Christ Church is located at 1 Church Street.
Flagstaff Hill

Take a walk up to Flagstaff Hill, where you will not only have excellent views over the Bay of Islands, but also see a part of New Zealand’s history.
The history of the flagstaff started on 8 July 1844, when Te Haratua, an ally of Hone Heke, cut it down. Heke was originally going to cut it down, but had been persuaded by Archdeacon William Williams not to.
Although the flagstaff was replaced and troops were sent to guard it, it was cut down again on January 10, 1845, by Hone Heke. On 18 January 1845, a flagstaff sheathed in iron was erected. Once again, the next morning, Hōne Heke cut the flagstaff down.
The ‘Flagstaff War’ or the ‘Northern War’ started after the flagstaff was cut down for a fourth time by Hōne Heke. In 1846, Hone Heke and Te Ruki Kawiti agreed on peace terms with the government, but the flagstaff wasn’t re-erected again, as this was feared to lead to further conflict, until January 1858.
Cruising in the Bay of Islands
I did the Cream Trip, which included the Hole in the Rock and a stopover on Urupukapuka Island. It was a full day of seeing natural wonders, dolphins, whales and other aquatic life.

You can read about my day on my blog, 1 Amazing Day on the Bay, Cream Trip, Bay of Islands, NZ.
Just Enjoy the Ambience in Russell, Bay of Islands
I love walking around the streets of Russell. It is a quaint town with a brutal past, and many tourists visit throughout the year, especially in the summer, yet it still retains its peaceful seaside charm.

Once you’re off the ferry, it’s easy to walk around Russell. The hardest part is the walk up to Flagstaff Hill from the beach, but the views are worth it.

You can always hire a moped to get you around if you aren’t energetic or for the fun of it.
Where I Stayed
I stayed at the Paihia YHA, located conveniently close to everything in Paihia, including the ferry to Russell.

This sustainable youth hostel features solar power, private and dorm rooms, and a large courtyard with picnic tables, where you can swap stories with fellow travellers at the end of the day.
It’s a short walk to the shops in Paihia, cruises, or the beach, and only three and a half kilometres to Waitangi.
Facilities
- Solar Powered
- Free Wifi
- Free Onsite Car Parking
- Communal Kitchen (with food storage area), Dining and Lounge Rooms
- Recycling Stations
- Herb Garden
- Outdoor area with BBQ
- Games and Book Exchange
- Laundry Facilities
- Wheelchair Accessible
- 24-Hour Guest Access and After-hours Check-in on Request
- Hair Dryers
- Towel Hire
- Hot Water Bottles
- Travel and Activity Bookings
I have stayed here twice now and would highly recommend it. You feel as though you have a home away from home.
Conclusion
Overall, Russell, New Zealand, offers a unique blend of history, natural beauty, and adventure, making it a fantastic destination to explore.
It makes for the perfect afternoon after taking the ferry across from Paihia or spending more time here relaxing in the town’s quaintness and peacefulness.
I hope you visit Russell and enjoy it as much as I do.
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Links
If you’d like to read more of my blogs about Australia, you can find them at the following links: Queensland, South Australia, New South Wales, Victoria, Camping, and Silo Art. Alternatively, if you’re interested in New Zealand, the United Kingdom, or Photography, you can click on their respective links.
Travel Resources
- Flights & Accommodation—You can search for the cheapest flights and accommodation using Booking.com, Tripadvisor, and WayAway, which offers 5% cashback.
- Car Hire—In Australia, you can use Apex Car Rentals Australia, Budget Car Rentals Australia, or Avis Car Rentals Australia.
- Camper & RV Rentals—Want a quieter pace exploring Australia and New Zealand in your own accommodation? Jucy Rentals and Star RV Rentals will give you an unforgettable travelling experience.
- Train & Bus Tickets UK & Europe—Use Trainline to plan and book your rail and bus travel in the UK and Europe.
- Travel Insurance is the number one thing to pack when you’re travelling. Cover-More Australia, Cover-More New Zealand, EKTA, Travel Insurance Master, and Insubuy provide insurance coverage during your travels.
- Attractions—buy before you leave home with these great sites: Big Bus Tour, Get Your Guide, GoCity and Viator.
- Visa Applications—apply online for your visa requirements with iVisa.
- SIM cards—Try Airalo, the world’s first eSIM store, which solves the pain of high roaming bills by giving travellers access to eSIMs (digital SIM cards).
- Power Stations—Bluetti Australia and EcoFlow Australia Power Stations are your choices for sustainable, eco-friendly power on the go or at home.
- For more tips, try my Travel Links and Resources page.
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